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| THE WINE GUIDE - The Best of Wine
in Ireland 2002 & 2003 |
THE IRISH TIMES - (John Wilson) 19th April 2008 BOTTLE OF THE WEEK
.Following on from my recent article on wines from the Macon,
several readers have asked me to list a few less expensive wines
from the region. I am happy to do so now.
Domaine Chene Macon - La Roche Vineuse 2006
"A richer style, with lovely mouth-filling honey
and ripe apple fruits.
Perfect with chicken or fish in white sauces!"
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Kalleske 2005 Johann Georg Shiraz
Sigh! If only all wines were this good..... A wine that is all about structure, fruit quality and finish, and yet it is one of those rare beasts that will continue to improve for years, but it is still bloody drinkable now. Aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant/ black plum spectrum fruit, cedar and subtle spices are inviting. The deep, pure, strong fruit is perfectly framed by dusty tannins and unobtrusive acid. The palate is rich and sumptuous with blackberry, chocolate, aniseed and coffee flavours, which has a throttling finish that goes a full lap past the checkered flag. Full-bodied solid, and harmonious already, in time it should become seamless. A class act, it's rated as Excellent with *** for value now, and well-worth the $100 flag fall, and the price won't matter when it reaches it's peak and the rating improves.
. Ric Einstein, TorbWine, July 2007
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Here's what Robert Parker has to say..
A young turk, Troy Kalleske, seems to be obsessed with making a great name for his family’s Barossa Valley wines. The Kalleske family owns a whopping 400 acres (sic) of vines in Barossa’s tenderloin section, the highly renowned Greenock region, where the conditions are extreme and the vines are stressed. Most of the Kalleske fruit was sold off to larger companies until Troy recently decided to produce his own wines. His brilliant 2006 Clarry’s White is a tank-fermented and aged blend of equal parts Chenin Blanc and Semillon. Dry and refreshing with a spring flower garden-scentet bouquet, a light to medium-bodied style, crisp acidity, and abundant fruit, this is a terrific white to drink over the next 1-2 years. The least expensive red, the 2005 Clarry’s Red is an old barrel-aged blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Shiraz. It is an Australian version of a French Cotes du Rhone on steroids. Delicious sweet cherry, strawberry, and framboise aromas along with hints of white pepper and spice soar from the glass of this yummy red. Full-bodied, seductive and filled with pleasure, it is a classic, hedonistic, fruit-driven effort that admirably displays the purity of Barossa Valley fruit. Drink this unmanipulated, uncomplicated 2005 over the next 2-3 years. From vines planted in 1935, the 2004 Grenache Old Vine (100% Grenache aged in neutral French and American oak for two years) reveals a big, sweet nose of black raspberries, sweet cherries, pepper, spice, and resiny notes. Rich, heady, and full-bodied with moderate alcohol for the vintage (15.5%), this long, evolved Grenache is best drunk over the next 4-5 years. Another beauty, the 2005 Old Vine Grenache exhibits a deep ruby/purple color as well as a sweet perfume of black and red fruits, melted licorice, subtle dried Provencal herbs, a touch of pepper, a superb attack, an opulent mouthfeel, and a long, layered finish. This brilliant Grenache should drink well for 5-6 years. Produced from relatively young vines some of whose fruit is sold to Seppelt and Penfolds (sic), the 2004 Shiraz Greenock possesses an opaque purple color in addition to a gorgeously rich nose of toasty, smoky oak, interwoven with black raspberry, blackberry, and cassis fruit flavours. Full-bodied, rich, and spicy, with no hard edges, it displays a generous dosage of American oak that is nearly over the top. Even more impressive, the 2005 Shiraz Greenock exhibits an inky/purple color, greater intensity, and additional roasted meat and gamy characteristics interwoven with pepper, crème de cassis, and blackberry liqueur. The oak treatment is identical to the 2004, but that component seems more subdued in the 2005. The 2005 should evolve and drink well for 10-15 years. Kalleske’s top wine is the 150-case cuvee of Shiraz Johann Georg Old Vine from a 129-year-old vineyard. Named after the first Kalleske, a native of Silesia (sic) who immigrated to Australia in 1838, it offers just about everything one could want in a Barossa Valley Shiraz. Aged two years in new French and American 300 liter hogsheads, and produced from yields of one ton of fruit per acre, this cuvee is extraordinarily consistent in 2004 and 2005. In fact, it’s hard to choose a favorite. Both wines exhibit great intensity, inky/purple colors, and notes of creosote, camphor, blackberries, cassis, and subtle vanillin/pain grille notes. Unbelievably unctuous and full-bodied, with stunning concentration, thrilling purity, and amazing length as well as richness, both of these vintages should evolve gracefully for 15+ years.
Kalleske 2006 Lorraine Semillon 85 points
Kalleske 2005 Clarry’s Red 89 points
Kalleske 2006 Clarry’s White 89 points
Kalleske 2005 Grenache Old Vine 93 points
Kalleske 2004 Grenache Old Vine 92 points
Kalleske 2005 Shiraz Greenock 94-96 points
Kalleske 2004 Shiraz Greenock 94 points
Kalleske 2005 Shiraz Johann Georg Old Vine 94-96 points
Kalleske 2004 Shiraz Johann Georg Old Vine 96 points
… Robert Parker Jnr., The Wine Advocate, Oct 31 2006
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KALLESKE GREENOCK SHIRAZ 2004
"One of the Top 12 Best Shiraz in the World"
2004 Kalleske Greenock Shiraz. winner of THE GREAT SHIRAZ CHALLENGE. Competing against more than 200 other Shiraz wines from all over Australia, 2004 Kalleske Greenock Shiraz was selected as "The Great Shiraz" by more than 800 attendees at The Edinburgh Great Shiraz Challenge on 25th June 2006.
. The Great Shiraz Challenge, The Ed, 25th June 2006
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Kalleske Old Vine Grenache Dark to very inky purple/red. From the first look, whiff and taste I could tell this was very serious, and very, very special. Sweet/spicy coconut, eucalyptus/mint, earthy/dark chocolate and a hint of VA on the nose, layered, powerful, complex and unique. The appearance and bouquet set a very high standard for the palate, which it more than matched; a sweet/minty entry followed by ripe, peaty blackberry/blueberry fruit and black olive tannins, layered, huge, chewy and on a scale that defies belief. There was the odd panelist who thought it wasn't Grenache-like; frankly I couldn't care less, this sets a standard that all Grenache should be measured against. I also think it's the best wine I've tried this year. Panel ranking: 1st place
. Blacktongues, Tasting Panel, July 2006 |
Masia
Sagué Cava Brut Nature Gran Reserva This
sparkler is in the traditional style, with earthy, yeasty influences.
Good concentration of toasty apple fruit flavours. Very complex
for the money; versatile food wine or an aperitif. |
Barbera
d'Asti Superiore Berengarium 1999
Fragrant nose with plum and mushroom.
Generous palate of chocolate mousse, marinated black cherries
and a touch of sweet dried fruits. With good balance and integrated
tannins it finishes on a warm, spicy note.
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IRISH INDEPENDENT- BEST CELLARS:
Myles McWeeney
Tuesday, 27 August 2002
Nectar goes for the top bouquets
Three red wines this week - one each
from Italy, France and Spain, each very different, but all
sourced by the small but enterprising young independent wine
merchant, Nectar Wines Ltd, run by John McGrath and Carl Byrne.
John and Carl source their wines the hard way, tacking down
the winemakers personally and persuading them to give them
the agency for Ireland.
Most of the wines come from relatively small producers, so
they don't have a wide distribution, but on the evidence of
these three it's worth seeking them out.
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MAS DE LIBIAN Côtes du Rhône
The Southern Rhone is producing some fantastic wines at the
moment and this one is made by Hélène Thibon.
Hélène is in her late 20s and in June this year
she was selected by the French Wine Review as one of its Young
Winemakers of the Year.
She makes her wines in a traditional fashion following organic
principles, and the vineyards have 'pudding-stone' soil like
that found in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The stones reflect
sunlight during the day and retain heat during the cold nights,
thus making the vines work harder to extract water and minerals
from the soil.
This leads to a great concentration of fruit. This wine is made
from a blend of Grenache and Syrah and has a nose full of black
cherry aromas and lots of peppery spice and chocolate in the
mouth. It is a recent Gold Medal winner. |
BERENGARIUM Barbera d'Asti
Asti, a town and province in Piedmont
in Northern Italy, is primarily known for the ubiquitous cheap
and cheerful sparkling wine Asti Spumanti.
But the region, which has been attracting a lot of favourable
attention in recent years, also produces lots of fruity, expressive
red varietals, including this showstopper of a Barbera Superiore.
It has a deep ruby colour and a nose of black cherries with
strong hints of tobacco. In the mouth it is full, smooth and
concentrated, with lots of forest berry flavours and a vanilla
oak finish.
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| MANUEL DE
CABANYES Crianza
This wine is made by Masia Sagué, a family operation
in the Penedes region which is in the hills about 50km from
Barcelona.
Until this year Masia Sagué wines were only available
in Spain and, since the production is quite small, it was
quite a coup for Nectar Wines to get an allocation.
The Manuel de Cabanyes is named after a famous 16th century
Spanish romantic poet whose soulful portrait appears on the
label.
It's a winning combination of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot. It has a sweet cherry nose and complex layers
of soft red fruits in the mouth, with definite cinnamon and
liquorice notes from the 15 months barrel ageing.
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IRISH INDEPENDENT- BEST CELLARS:
Myles McWeeney
Tuesday, 2 September 2003
Another small Irish wine company with
some really interesting wines on its list is Nectar Wines,
run by John McGrath and Carl Byrne. John and Carl track down
the wines personally and enjoy a close relationship with their
producers which is the way it should be in an ideal world.
I recently tasted three wines new to them and was very impressed.
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Domaine Chêne Saint Veran 2000
Domain Chêne is in Berze-la-Ville
just up the road from the town of Macon, and this full-bodied
Chardonnay is a powerful and elegant offering, packed with
nutty, buttery flavours of melon and pineapple with a nose
full of apple and lemon aromas. This is a classy Burgundian
white at a very competitive price
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Domaine Metrat et Fils Fleurie 2002
Fleurie, made from the ubiquitous Beaujolais Gamay grape,
is often called 'Queen of Beaujolais' because it is lighter
and more feminine than a Moulin-a-Vent. This version has a
distinctly floral nose and on the palate is packed with juicy
summer fruit flavours. A very nicely made Fleurie, with some
distinctive character.
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| Domaine de
Fontavin Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000
Hélène and Michel Chouvet, the owners of Domaine
de Fontavin, are seventh generation winemakers in the Southern
Rhone Valley and know exactly what they are doing. Their approach
is traditional, their respect for nature absolute and they
let the terroir of their parcels of vines do the talking.
I loved this dark and inky wine which has a pronounced spicy
bouquet and which fills the mouth with rich raspberry-tinged
flavours and nicely balanced tannins. It'll keep for another
five years and develop well.
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JOHN MCKENNA,
www. bestofbridgestone.com
Wine talk |
Nectar indeed
It's a healthy thing to see small wine
companies coming along and offering interesting new wines
to the trade, and Nectar Wines run by Carl Byrne and John
McGrath is just such an outfit.
We would walk a long way for a taste of something as fine
as the
Mas de Libian Viognier, made by Hélène Thibon,
a really smashing wine.
Funny thing is Ms Thibon's Côtes du
Rhône Villages is almost better; whacking waves of red
berry fruit and a sensual mouth feel make for a seriously
sexy drink.
Look out for these beauties in good wine
shops and on restaurant lists.
Nectar Wines Ltd, Chapelizod, Dublin &
Bodega, Tuam, Co. Galway. |
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FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE:
Ernie Whalley
September 2003 |
….earlier this year I attended
a tasting in Dublin of Southern Rhône wines. Tucked
away in a corner was a lady with but one wine on display.
"it is my wine. It is what I do", she said. I tasted
and thought the wine, a Châteauneuf, pretty sensational,
one of the best two or three on display.
….I recently had the opportunity to sample Madame Chouvet's
wine again at a tasting organised by John McGrath and Carl
Byrne's Nectar Wines. I'm delighted to say my previous impressions
were confirmed.
A blend of perfumed Grenache backed up by some steely Syrah,
the 2000 vintage Domaine de Fontavin was sound, rounded and
complex and at €21.95 way short of the price commanded
by the more famous names.
The white Châteauneuf was appealing too, a powerful
nose led to a great concentration of fruit on the palate,
complex flavours of nuts and chocolate hanging around long
after you'd put the glass down. A blend of white Grenache
and Roussane, keeping qualities must be in question but if
you want a 'now' wine for a special dinner party this is as
good as it gets.
Sticking with the Rhône, I was delighted to re-encounter
Hélène Thibon's
Mas de Libian. Hélène is a very talented young
winemaker and her not-so 'ordinary' Côtes du Rhône
2001 gets my vote for the best red currently available in
Ireland for under €11.
Is not €24 an awful lot of money to pay for a Côtes
du Rhône Villages? Not when it's the same lady's 2000
La Calade, a huge, serious wine that, at 15% ABV, gives the
lie to the currently modish theory that high alcohol wines
are per se crude and fatiguing.
I also wrote notes of approval for a fine Macon Villages from
Domaine Chêne, for Barking Owl's clean Sauvignon/Semillon
and for an expressive and weighty Barbera d'Asti Superiore
Berengarium 1999 which, at €14.95 is just the job to
re-energise palates jaded by too much Merlot, Cabernet and
Shiraz.
BOUQUET OF THE MONTH to Nectar Wines, Chapelizod, for their
short but skilfully compiled list.
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